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 The Savage Journey of Dr. Gonzo
 

"Thompson was a madman, but we needed a madman on our side
to keep the lunatics on the other side in check. There's more of them
than us and they're a lot more dangerous than Thompson ever was."

 -- comment from an aging hippie in Hawaii.


        The tempestuous writer nicknamed Dr. Gonzo and Duke once said the only way to learn the boundary of The Edge is from people who have gone over it. He finally went over himself, but not like he imagined when was younger. Back then he thought he would buy it pushing a motorcyle over 100 miles per hour on some lonely moonlit highway. When the time came, he ate a .45 pistol instead.
        As Don Meredith used to sing when Monday night football became a blow-out, turn out the lights, the party's over. Hunter S. Thompson is gone and a new earth would have to evolve before we see another writer as original as he was.
        The founder of gonzo journalism would have approved of stretching a football metaphor to describe the end of his life. Thompson was a football fanatic who often ignored writing deadlines to watch important games. In football he saw the American game of life in all of its graceful splendor and bone-crunching ugliness.
        Thompson's last Sunday game was a different kind of blow-out. At his 100-acre Owl Creek farm near Aspen, Colorado, he extinguished the candle of his life and left millions of fans in the dark. He was pushing 68 and his physical health had been deteriorating for the past year: spinal surgery, hip replacement, constant pain, in and out of a wheelchair -- not to mention the likely degenerative effects of his legendary use of alcohol and drugs. To top it off, he broke his leg during a recent vacation in Hawaii.
        Thompson never expected to see 40, thought he would die young and leave a good-looking corpse like James Dean. Approaching middle age, he made a pilgrimage to the grave of one of his favorite writers, Ernest Hemingway, to see if he could reach an understanding of why Hemingway had killed himself. The residents of Ketchum, Idaho, had one thing to say about Hemingway's condition in those last years: "That poor old man."
        Dr. Gonzo was a large man (six-foot, three-inches tall) with a large appetite for the pleasures of life. Being pitied was not for him. He lived six years longer than Hemingway and cashed in his chips for the same reason as his hero. When a man grows too old and frail to enjoy the things he loves to do, the things that give his life meaning, it's time for him to say goodbye. Thompson lasted to within a year and a half of the average American male lifespan -- no shabby feat for a man who lived perpetually on The Edge.
        The sprawling Colorado homestead Thompson occupied for many years was officially named the Owl Creek Farm, but he sometimes referred to it as "The Compound" -- as in bunker seige mentality. Was Thompson paranoid? Or were "they" really after him?
        A case could be made for actual persecution in some instances. The Guardians of Normal Society once tried to railroad Thompson into prison on trumped-up charges which he beat with the help of influential friends. The critics were not kind to Thompson's last couple of books. Some used hairy phrases like "hopelessly out of date" and "has been." In these neo-conservative times it has become fashionable to ridicule icons like Thompson who emerged out of the wild 60s movement. Thompson chose to hunker down in his Colorado retreat to weather the new political storm raging across America. He stayed out of the limelight as much as possible and even stopped visiting his favorite watering hole, the Woody Creek Tavern, as often as he used to.
        But since his death, I have been surprised by how gently the press has treated the memory of Dr. Gonzo. Now that he is safely gone and can cause no more trouble, it seems he is suddenly worthy of all kinds of praise. I'm convinced Thompson would have a sarcastic remark to make if he could read his obituaries -- just like he would find humor in the fact that he died on the same day as Sandra Dee. The former movie princess with a squeaky-clean image concealing a tragic case of alcoholism and the madman who flaunted his excesses out in the open for everyone to see. The comic irony would have drawn a belly laugh from Dr. Gonzo.
        My own introduction to Thompson came 30 years ago when I picked up a copy of "Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas." It was ostensibly about Thompson covering a motocross race in the southern Nevada desert, but the subtitle gave hint to the book's true message -- "A Savage Journey to the Heart of the American Dream." I thought it was the most outrageously funny book I ever read. I laughed so hard and long I actually got a stomach ache. Who could ever forget the "medicine"-induced desert bats or the 300-pound Samoan attorney staring at a knife blade with a wild gleam in his eyes or crawling to a hotel room closet to puke into a pair of shoes? It was madness on a grand scale and it was bizarrely hilarious for all the wrong reasons. After I finished the book, I concluded that Thompson possessed some sort of skewed genius for darkly absurd humor.
        As I soon discovered, that was only one facet of his multi-dimensional writing. Since "Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas," I have read literally every word that Thompson ever published and some of it multiple times. I wanted to get to the bottom of what actor Jack Nicholson called "the most baffling human iceberg of our time." Aside from ordinary curiosity about an author I enjoyed reading, I had personal reasons to explore the life and work of this mysterious wild man. (See sidebar)
        Like his favorite boxer Mohammad Ali, Thompson grew up in Louisville, Kentucky, home of the high-society Kentucky Derby which irritated him enough to perfect his new kind of journalism when he covered the horse race in 1974. Thompson got into trouble with the law when he was a fatherless teenager. Details of the incident are sketchy and obscured by the mythology Thompson loved to create about his personal life. Suffice it to say that from an early age he didn't believe policemen were his friends. Following high school, he attended Columbia University, but dropped out after a short time.
        Thompson began his professional writing career in his early twenties as a newspaper reporter in San Juan, Puerto Rico. Nearly four decades later he wrote about his San Juan experiences in "The Rum Diary," a laid-back narrative that included a glimpse of his friendship with future fiction author William Kennedy.
        After Puerto Rico, Thompson took a job as a roving correspondent for the National Observer in South America. For a young man with scant formal training in journalism, his National Observer reports were amazingly perceptive and well-written to an experienced journalist like myself. While in South America, Thompson became ill and took some medicine that caused his hair to start falling out, resulting in his trademark baldness.
        His next stop was San Francisco on the cusp of the hippie revolution, but Thompson was no instant convert. At that point in his life he was much more of a Kerouac beatnik than a Flower Child, preferring to hang out with motorcyclists than longhairs. He had a rough time finding steady work to support himself in the City By The Bay and he moved to Big Sur for awhile to hunt wild pigs in the bush. Later he began  following the Hell's Angels motorcycle gang with the idea of collecting material for a book about them. When the Angels discovered he was a writer, they nearly beat him to death, but he got his book published and it attracted a lot of attention in the right circles.
        Thompson was in San Francisco for the 1965 Summer of Love and eventually he embraced the goals and the lifestyle of the hippie movement in his own unique way. Years later Thompson reflected on the 60s as a time when "we were riding the crest of a high and beautiful wave." Looking back at the era's passing, he added with obvious disappointment: "You can almost see the high-water mark -- the place where the wave finally broke and rolled back."
        By the time "Hell's Angels" appeared in print, Thompson was married and had a young son, Juan, whom he didn't want to grow up to be a "good German." The reference was to atrocities committed by Nazis who claimed they were only doing their patriotic duty by following orders. Hatred of fascism disguised as patriotism was an early hallmark of Thompson's thinking.
        His breakthrough book was "Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas," published in 1971. It sold millions of copies and opened doors that would otherwise have been closed to Thompson. He decided to make presidential politics his bailiwick, a fateful choice that would shape his writing for the rest of his life. In 1972 he followed the presidential candidates around the country. Among the press corps, he was the odd man out, usually riding on the Zoo plane instead of Air Force One with incumbent Republican President Richard Nixon.
        Thompson cultivated a venomous dislike of Nixon and the feeling was mutual. Thompson once said Nixon and his "Barbie doll" family were "America's answer to the monstrous Mr. Hyde. He speaks for the werewolf in us. He was a liar, a quitter and a bastard. A cheap crook and a merciless war criminal."
        Thompson recalled standing on the tarmac beside Air Force One while it was being refueled one day. He lit a cigarette and gleefully pondered tossing the match into the fuel to save the country from Nixon. He didn't do it, of course, but this revealed how twisted his imagination could be.
        He was nearly as merciless in his assessment of two other  presidential candidates in 1972. He called Hubert Humphrey a "ward  healer" and wrote: "There is no way to grasp what a shallow,  contemptible and hopelessly dishonest old hack Hubert Humphrey is  until you've followed him around for a while." Covering Edmund  Muskie, he said, "was something like being locked in a rolling box car  with a vicious 200-pound water rat."
         Thompson's book "Fear and Loathing: On the Campaign Trail  '72" was an immediate success, but he took less satisfaction than he  expected because Nixon was re-elected in a landslide victory over the  anti-Vietnam war candidate George McGovern.
         After the presidential campaign book, Thompson began writing  for Rolling Stone and other magazines. He was always late settling in  for a writing assignment at some unlikely location, setting the stage for  an ordeal of anxiety, missed deadlines and mutual recriminations with  his employers. Thompson seemed to work best under these disagreeable conditions. He usually started by getting loaded and wandering around, which seemed like wasting time, but it was his way of absorbing the ambience of the place to cut through the bullshit and reach the pertinent underbelly of what was happening. He put off the actual writing to the last minute when the magazine editor was tearing out his hair by the roots and screaming on the phone for copy to be faxed one page at a time hot off the typewriter. In his deranged state of mind Thompson's thinking went something like this: All I have to do is lash some paragraphs together and send this puppy off before the hyenas move in for the kill.
        It was a game Hunter loved to indulge in, particularly with Rolling Stone publisher Jan Wenner. "A writer must have his little diversions," Thompson once calmly explained to an irate Wenner. The magazines put up with Thompson's slovenly work habits because he was the most insightful (if somewhat warped) journalist of his era.
        In practice Thompson honed a revolutionary kind journalism in which the reporter plays a central role in the story. It was in your-face outlaw journalism, but he prankishly named it gonzo journalism after the goofy-looking Muppet character. In traditional journalism reporters are supposed to be invisible and objective in what they write. Thompson chose to inject himself, his strong opinions and his imagination into every article he composed. Some called his writing fiction, but Thompson was quick to point out that a writer's work is ultimately based on his real experiences.
        Christopher Lehmann-Haupt of The New York Times worried Thompson might some day "lapse into good taste. That would be a shame, for while he doesn't see America as Grandma Moses depicted it, or the way they painted it for us in civics class, he does in his own mad way betray a profound democratic concern for the polity. And in its own mad way, it's damned refreshing."
        In 1983 Thompson came to Hawaii on assignment to cover the Honolulu marathon. After dismissing the race as "a bunch of Japs running past the Arizona Memorial," he relocated to the Big Island where I happened to live. He arrived in Kona just in time for the worst winter rainstorm in decades. After the storm abated, he went deep sea fishing and noted how the boat captain turned into a Nazi the instant he stepped aboard. But Thompson wore him down and the boat ended up adrift and on fire off of South Point. When Japanese tourists waved from the cliffs, Thompson shouted: "Remember Pearl Harbor!"
        In Kona he also met some marijuana growers and made a nuisance of himself at the Kona Inn bar. I deduced this from the reaction of the bartender when I asked if he had seen Thompson lately. He stopped wiping a glass and glared at me hatefully. "No, I haven't. Why?"
        My deduction was confirmed later when I read "The Curse of Lono," Thompson's book about his long stay in Hawaii. With one exception, he was quite perceptive in his observations of the Aloha State. He noted that native Hawaiians were unfairly forced to live on the margins of island society, but he expressed astonishment that Hawaiians believed sharks were the manifested spirits of their ancestors. Thompson didn't care for sharks, especially not when he was swimming in the ocean.
        One passage in the book upset me. I lived in a tropical rainforest on the east side of the island which I considered one of the most beautiful places on earth. After a drive through the area, Thompson described it as "a vast fern wasteland" -- a very odd choice of words in my opinion. Apparently, he was turned off by the constant rain I had become accustomed to.
        In his later years Thompson mellowed a bit. He traveled less and stayed home to take care of his Colorado farm, which had a peacock as a "watch dog." One photo purportedly shows Thompson feeding a wolverine -- one of the most vicious animals on earth. He fooled around with his massive gun collection and had his own firing range on the farm. Two of his drinking buddies were actor Don Johnson and CBS newsman Ed Bradley, who owned homes nearby.
        "Nothing exceeds like excess" could have been Dr. Gonzo's motto in his heyday if it hadn't already been used as a buzz line in the film "Scarface." Or, as poet William Blake said, the road of excess leads to the palace of wisdom. These sentiments applied to both the life and the writing of Thompson. I try to picture him as the ancient Greek demi-god Pan carrying a typewriter slung over his shoulder, a silver-tongued satyr with mischief always on his mind, but the hooves would have freaked him out. "Holy shit, man," I can almost hear him mutter. "People will think I'm the devil, dig up my grave and beat my corpse like a red-headed stepchild."
        Thompson was a shameless ham around cameras -- his daughter-in-law hinted at cross-dressing and excessive use of lipstick on occasion -- but for all his clownish posturing, he was at heart an intensely private and thoughtful man, according to family members and friends. His public persona was a defense mechanism to keep the world mystified. Dr. Gonzo, we hardly knew ye.
        After his close friend and attorney Oscar Acosta vanished without a trace in Mexico (some say in a drug deal gone bad), Thompson wrote this simple eulogy: "He stomped the terra." Hunter Thompson did the same with his own brand of panache.
        He requested one song to be played at his funeral -- Bob Dylan's "Mr. Tambourine Man":
                
I'm ready to go anywhere
                I'm ready to fade
                Into my own parade
                Cast your dancing spell my way,
                I promise to go under it

        If Thompson had left the choice to me, I would have selected this tune by Crosby, Stills, Nash and Young:
                
Find the cost of freedom
                Buried in the ground
                Mother Earth will swallow you
                Lay your body down

        Selah!

TIME MAGAZINE ARTICLE BY THOMPSON                  MORE THOMPSON PHOTOS


 Parallel Lives For Awhile

        I gained an extraordinary personal incentive to understand Thompson after I read his biography a few years ago. It turned out to be an eerie deja-vu experience I will never forget. As incredible as it seems, Thompson and I had uncannily identical lives until we were in our mid-20s.
        The long list of remarkable similarities begins with where we were born -- just a couple miles apart (he in Louisville, Kentucky, and me on the other side of the Ohio River in Jeffersonville, Indiana, seven years later). As a youth, Thompson fell in love with a girl named Leslie Ann Frick. So did I in high school. It was a different girl, of course, but she had the exact same name right down to the middle name. What are the odds of that happening?
        In his early twenties Thompson moved to a tropical place (Puerto Rico) to work as a newspaper reporter. At the same time in my life I fled Michigan for the palm trees of South Florida and landed a job as a cub reporter on a daily newspaper in West Palm Beach. (Thompson later covered the divorce trial of Roxanne Pulitzer in West Palm Beach.) Both of us crossed a picket line to take our first newspaper jobs -- an act that I'm thoroughly ashamed of now. We each married a woman named Sandy and both marriages ended in divorce. Thompson was in the Air Force and hated it, getting into trouble more than once. I had the same experience during my Air Force enlistment.
        In the early 1960s Thompson lived in San Francisco and had a rough time surviving because he couldn't find steady work. I tried the City by the Bay right after high school graduation in 1962 and I encountered the same problem as Thompson. It the first of two times that Thompson and I lived in the same place at the same time, but we never met.
        Thompson moved to the bush and hunted wild pigs as his only source of meat for awhile. I learned pig hunting when I lived in the rainforest of Maui and I relied on my kills to eat meat for six months since I had no money for store-bought meat. Then at the age of 27 Thompson wrote a book about the Hell's Angels that launched his writing career and our lives finally diverged into different paths. He became a famous author while I stopped writing for years.
        I was inspired to start writing again after I discovered Thompson's books. He appeared to be having so much fun I couldn't resist getting back into the writing game.